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SOUTHERN  BRANCH, 

'UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA, 

LIBRARY, 

iLOS  ANGELES,  CALIF. 


pRQGRES^Slf^   S'tEPS- 


Ai^iTecT^l  Drwing 


°GeO°W°  SeAMAN''AR£H1TECT  • 

In5tiluctor-1N-  Akchitectuile^  School-  of   Indushlial  •  Ar,ts 

Tr,lnton -^NJ 


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^  A- 5tep-bx-5tep- Method  for    Stiident-Draii|KiJmen  •  v 
Iboeiker  \v^ilh.- Peiaib  of-  ConsirueiiOKt  •  (^- Desi^R  • 
lb  be  used  as  a  Text- book,  iR-ike    Drau^ktiR^- 
Courses  m  Hi^kSckools -,  Technical    ScKqdIS' ^Tcandas 
a-  K^feren,ce  •  Book,    itl-  Jrck-iteciural  Offices 


7  r  7 


467in 

■The-  Manual- Ar,t5  •  Phess 
•  Peoria  ^    •'  Illinois* 


Copyright,  1919,  by 

Geo.  \V.  Seaman 
Second  K<lition,  1920 


G»|,.X 


5- 


^  INTRODUCTION 

In  presenting  this  work,  it  has  been  the  purpose  of  the  writer  to  follow  a  definite 
system  of  draughtsmanship,  and  to  explain  the  various  steps  taken  so  that  they  will 
act  as  a  guide  to  the  young  student-draughtsman.  As  a  rule  the  student  knows  how 
the  finished  product  should  appear,  but  seldom  has  he  any  definite  idea  of  how  best 
to  obtain  this  result.  He  will  find  himself  drawing  line  after  line  without  their  hav- 
ing any  meaning  to  him;  in  some  cases  using  another  drawing  as  an  example,  count- 
'  ing  the  lines  of  the  cornice,  belt  course  or  other  details  and  laying  great  stress  on  the 
^     number  of  lines  used,  but  knowing  little  of  their  meaning  or  effect. 

.  Very  often  in  the  classroom  the  student  will  be  found  working  earnestly  over 

~     unimportant  features  of  the  plan  or  elevation  before  he  has  worked  out  broadly  the 

^     whole  drawing.     This  often  brings  his  work  to  an  abrupt  stop,  and  he  has  no  idea  of 

how  to  proceed  with  his  drawing  in  a  practical  manner.     Had  the  student  blocked 

-U     out  the  plans  and  elevations  in  their  entirety,  he  would  have  at  once  obtained  a  grasp 

"^  of  the  problem  which  would  have  enabled  him  to  carrv  out  his  work  to  a  success- 

(^     ful  completion. 

The  experienced  draughtsman  must  not  judge  the  beginner  too  severely  for  any 
mistakes  which  he  may  make.  The  student  is  practically  learning  a  new  language, 
and  therefore  he  must  act]uire  the  proper  pronunciation  and  meaning  of  the  "words", 
step  by  step,  before  he  can  readily  "talk"  (or  draw)  with  his  pencil  in  a  creditable 
manner. 

It  is,  therefore,  in  the  hope  of  assisting  tlic  student-draughtsman  to  acquire  a 
definite  method  in  the  laying  out  of  his  work  that  the  following  is  respectfully  sub- 
mitted. 


^    Trenton,  New  Jersey,  Geo.  W.  Se.AMAN. 

February,  1919. 


CONTENTS 

Page 

Introdlction    3 

Professional  Practice   7 

Practical  Hints  ox  Drawing 10 

Plans 10 

Room  Sizes 10 

Walls    11 

Interior  Details   11 

Fixtures     12 

Elevations   12 

Exterior  Details 12 

Progressive  Steps  in  the  Development  of  Plans   1  + 

Progressi\e  Steps  in  the  Development  of  Elevations  24 

\'ariations  in  Plans  and  Elevations 32 

Progressive  Steps  in  the  Drawing  of  Cornices  on  One-quarter  Inch  Scale  Elevations.  .  38 
Progressive  Steps  in  the  Drawing  of  Porch  Cornices  and  Columns  at  One-ouarter  Inch 

Scale   40 

Progressi\e  Steps  in  Drawing  Details  of  Dot  ri.e-hung  \Vindow  Frames  at  Scale  or  Full 

Size 43 

Progressive  Steps  in  the  Drawing  of  Three-ou arter  and  Full  Size  Details 46 

Mouldings  and  Profiles 48 


PROFESSIONAL  PRACTICE 

The  usual  freehand  sketch-plans  and  elevations,  drawn  by  the  architect  on  the 
back  of  an  envelope  or  bit  of  scrap  paper,  either  during  or  just  following  his  con- 
sultation with  the  future  client,  are  reproduced  in  a  typical  manner  on  Plate  I.  This 
sketch  may  be  the  result  of  a  dozen  or  more  attempts  of  the  architect  to  interpret  his 
client's  requirements,  or  he  may  have  been  successful  in  the  first  attempt.  Plates  27, 
28,  29  and  30  should  also  be  studied  for  further  information,  reference,  and  practice 
in  making  sketch-plans. 

The  size  of  rooms,  their  position  in  the  plan,  style  and  size  of  house,  its  loca- 
tion and  the  materials  to  be  used  will  have  all  been  thoroughly  discussed.  The 
method  of  heating  and  lighting,  and  also  the  quality  and  style  of  the  plumbing  fix- 
tures will  have  been  settled  upon,  and  the  important  question  of  cost  taken  up. 

The  architect  then  gives  these  rough  sketches  to  one  of  his  draughtsmen  with 
instructions  to  ''work  it  up".  Thickness  and  material  for  the  outside  walls  are  de- 
termined, and  also  any  special  features  of  design  either  in  plan  or  elevation,  which 
might  well  be  worked  into  the  drawings.  Sometimes  a  start  is  made  at  once  on 
14"  scale  working  drawings,  but  more  often  the  plans  and  elevations  are  worked  up 
at  ys"  scale,  and  submitted  to  the  client  for  his  approval  before  starting  the  final 
drawings.  On  important  points  consultations  between  the  architect,  draughtsman, 
and  client  are  necessarv.  In  designing  the  elevations  and  arranging  the  lay-out  of 
the  plans  a  great  amount  of  study  is  required  before  the  ultimate  and  satisfactory  re- 
sult is  attained.  These  details  of  design  have  to  be  studied  and  sketched  sometimes 
repeatedly  (often  in  perspective  view),  using  a  soft  pencil  of  course,  before  arriving 
at  an  entirely  satisfactory  solution  of  the  problem. 

With  the  small  amount  of  data  given,  it  can  readily  be  seen  that  much  depends 
on  the  ability  of  the  draughtsman  to  carry  out  his  work  rapidly  and  efficiently.  He 
can  only  do  this  bv  having  a  thorough  and  broad  understanding  of  the  subject.  .In J 
above  all,  he  must  follow  a  definite  system  of  drawiiKj,  hlockiiuj  out  the  impor- 
tant points  first ,  and  (illing  in  the  details  afterwards,  as  shown  in  the  following  plates. 
This  method  is  easier,  <]uicker,  and  more  comprehensive  than  the  method  adopted  by 
some  student-draughtsmen  who  early  in  the  work  labor  over  unimportant  details, 
almost  to  the  utter  neglect  of  the  more  essential  parts  of  the  drawing. 

In  the  following  set  of  plates  the  student  will  proceed  with  the  plans  and  ele- 
vations almost  line  for  line  the  same  as  the  professional  draughtsman  would  do. 
This  method  should  be  used  for  working  out  all  drawings  whether  for  small  or  large 

7 


rROGRESSIlE   STEPS   IN   ARCHITECTURAL   DRAH'ISG 


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PROFESSKJS  II.    PR.ICTICE 


buildings.  The  only  differences  are  in  the  size,  the  arrangement  of  the  rooms,  the 
location  of  partitions,  etc.  All  drawings  should,  of  course,  be  first  carefully  drawn 
in  lead  pencil,  and  then  just  as  carefully  "inked  in".  Always  cross  the  lines  slightly 
at  intersections  even  in  inking,  as  shown  throughout  the  plates  in  this  book,  and  espe- 
cially illustrated  at  the  bottom  of  Plate  35. 

In  inking  in  a  drawing  the  circles  should  be  inked  first,  because  better  results 
are  obtained  by  joining  straight  lines  to  curved  ones  than  vice-versa.  Next  the  hori- 
zontal lines  should  be  inked,  drawing  from  left  to  right  and  working  from  the  top 
to  the  bottom  of  the  paper.  After  the  horizontal  lines,  the  vertical  lines  should  be 
inked.  These  are  drawn  from  the  bottom  to  the  top  of  the  paper,  working  from  left 
to  right.  The  freehand  curves  are  inked  after  the  other  lines  have  been  completed. 
The  lettering  should  be  inked  in  last. 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  ON  DRAWING 

The  student  should  tirst  be  certain  that  he  is  not  drawing  under  unnecessary 
difficuhies.  He  should  have  the  light  fall  on  his  board  unobstructed,  from  the  front 
and  left.  He  should  see  that  his  drawings  and  tools  are  within  easy  reach,  and  that 
he  has  a  good  scratch  block,  preferably  fastened  to  the  under  side  of  his  table  or 
board  with  a  cord.  Avoid  borrowing  instruments.  See  that  the  T-square  works 
easily  along  the  edge  of  the  board.  Keep  the  drawing  clean  of  pencil  sharpenings, 
dust,  etc.,  by  the  frequent  use  of  a  small  dust  brush. 

In  regard  to  work  on  the  drawing  itself,  the  student  should  keep  his  drawing 
pencil  well  sharpened  to  a  long  fine  point,  and  turn  it  as  the  line  is  drawn  to  keep 
the  point  in  good  shape.  The  point  should  never  be  so  short  that  the  wood  part  of 
the  pencil  touches  the  T-square  or  triangle,  as  this  results  in  a  ragged  line.  Use  a 
medium-soft  pencil,  HB,  F,  or  H  (No.  2,  3,  or  4)  in  preference  to  an  exceedingly 
hard  pencil,  as  a  drawing  of  much  better  character  can  be  made  with  a  soft  pencil 
when  kept  well  pointed,  and  the  lines  are  much  easier  erased  when  not  needed. 

When  laying  out  a  drawing  first  determine  its  position  on  the  sheet  so  that  it 
will  appear  to  the  best  advantage,  taking  future  lettering  and  surrounding  scale  de- 
tails or  notes  into  consideration.  Then  determine  the  most  important  parts  of  the 
drawing  and  put  these  in  first.  Concise  indication  of  the  essential  parts  of  a  plan 
or  elevation  will  help  the  progress  of  the  drawing  materially,  and  make  the  entire 
lay-out  much  more  easily  understood.  After  the  essential  or  construction  parts  are 
drawn,  the  details  mav  be  worked  in  as  hereafter  shown. 

Plans. — In  drawing  a  plan  the  essential  parts  are  the  outside  wall  lines  and  the 
positions  of  the  interior  piirtitions,  irrespective  of  doors,  windows,  etc.  After  the 
walls  and  partitions  are  indicated,  the  windows  and  doors,  chimnevs,  stairs,  dressers, 
fi.xturcs,  porches,  and  other  details  may  be  shown  in  their  correct  locations.  In  all 
the  plans  and  elevations  always  work  to  center  lines  of  windows,  doors,  and  like  de- 
tails, instead  of  working  to  the  sides  of  them.  It  is  obvious  that  in  this  way  the  work 
can  be  laid  out  more  rapidly  and  also  more  accurately  than  when  working  to  side 
lines. 

Room  Sizes. — The  sizes  of  rooms  and  their  location  will  be  determined  by  the 
requirements  and  the  direction  in  which  the  building  is  to  face.  WMiile  there  are  no 
regular  dimensions  for  the  various  rooms,  certain  standards  will  be  suggested  which 
may  be  helpful.     The  dimensions  are  often  regulated  by  the  (luantity  and  position 

10 


PRACTICAL    HINTS    ON   DRAIVINC  11 

of  the  furniture,  especially  in  the  dining-room,  kitchen,  and  in  the  bedrooms.  In 
the  living-room  it  is  necessary  to  provide  spaces  for  a  piano,  bookcases,  and  other 
furniture;  in  the  dining-room  about  6  feet  of  wall  space  is  necessary  for  a  sideboard, 
which  is  usually  placed  in  the  center  of  a  side  wall  either  towards  the  kitchen  or 
directly  opposite  the  main  hall  entrance  to  the  room.  The  kitchen,  of  course,  re- 
quires spaces  for  a  sink  with  drain  boards,  dresser,  coal  and  gas  ranges  and  boiler, 
and  also  a  good  location  for  the  work  table.  If  possible,  the  bedrooms  should  have 
two  places  where  a  bed  might  be  placed,  and  also  spaces  for  dressers  and  dressing 
tables.  All  bedrooms  should  have  ample  closet  space.  The  bathroom  should  have 
plenty  of  space  for  all  fixtures,  which  should  be  placed  to  the  best  advantage  for 
plumbing  installation. 

Most  of  the  rooms  should  be  rectangular  in  shape  rather  tlian  square,  in  the  pro- 
portion of  about  14'  to  16'.  The  living-room  is  often  twice  as  long  as  it  is  wide.  This 
is  made  necessary  by  its  position  on  the  plan,  and  by  the  requirements  of  the  room. 
The  various  rooms  and  passages  should  be  approximatelv  the  following  sizes:  the 
living-room  from  14'  x  16'  to  18'  x  30';  ths  dining-room,  14'  x  14'  or  13'  x  15'  to  16' 
X  20';  the  hall  at  least  7'  wide;  pantry  at  least  6'  wide;  kitchen,  10'  x  12'  to  14'  x  16'; 
bedr(joms,  10'  x  12'  to  14'  x  18';  bathrooms,  7'  x  10'  or  more;  passage  halls,  3'  wide 
or  more.  In  large  houses  the  above  rooms  are  of  course  made  as  spacious  as  possible 
and  may  exceed  the  dimensions  given,  but  these  dimensions  may  be  used  as  a  stand- 
ard, which  may  be  altered  by  special  requirements. 

Walls. — The  outside  walls  of  brick  houses  and  the  smaller  class  of  buildings 
are  usually  9"  or  13"  thick,  with  2"  inside  for  furring  and  plastering,  or  they  may 
be  9"  brick  and  4"  hollow  tile.  Eight  inch,  10"  or  12"  hollow  tile  walls,  rough  cast 
on  the  outside  are  also  used.  If  the  building  is  frame  the  outside  wall  will  be  7" 
thick  (2"  X  4"  stud,  1"  sheathing,  1"  outside  finish,  and  1"  inside  plastering).  Inte- 
rior partitions'  are  6"  thick  for  main  partitions  and  4"  or  6"  for  closet  partitions. 

Interior  Details. — Door  openings  are  2'-8",  2'- 10",  or  3'-0"  wide  for  main  rooms, 
and  2'-4"  or  2'-6"  for  closets.  Double  doors  are  4'-0"  to  S'-6"  wide.  Doors  are  6'-8", 
6'- 10",  7'-0",  or  7'-6"  high.  Outside  doors  are  3'-0"  or  3'-2"  wide,  and  6'- 10"  to  7'-6" 
high,  the  use  of  a  transom  or  over-door  above  being  determined  by  the  design.  Stairs 
should  be  at  least  3'-0"  wide,  wall  to  inside  of  rail,  for  the  main  stair,  and  2'-6"  in 
the  clear  for  rear,  cellar,  and  attic  stairs.  Treads  should  be  10"  (rise  to  rise),  and 
risers  7lA"  or  slightly  less  for  the  mam  stair.  Rear,  cellar,  and  attic  stairs  niav  have 
9"  treads,  and  8"  or  ^Y/'  risers. 

Chimney  flues  may  be  8"  x  8",  8"  x  12".  or  12"  x  12".  Some  are  made  of  terra- 
cotta, and  require  4"  or  more  of  brick  around  them  to  strengthen  and  make  them 
look  sturdy  in  elevation. 

Windows  shown  on  a  plan  sliould  be  approximately  3'-2"  wide,  3'-6"  to  4'-0" 


12  PROGRESSlf  E    STEPS    IN    ARCHITECTURAL    DRAtVING 

wide  if  an  outside  architrave  is  used.  The  windows  may  vary  considerably  in  order 
to  obtain  good  proportions  in  the  elevations,  but  sufficient  wall  space  should  always 
be  left  for  furniture.  Casement  and  other  special  windows  are  optional,  depending 
on  the  effect  desired. 

Outside  porch  columns  are  usually  10",  12"  or  more  in  diameter  for  round  col- 
umns, and  8"  to  10"  square  for  square  columns.  See  Plates  20  and  21.  Piers  may 
be  12"  X  12",  12"  x  17",  or  any  dimension  which  looks  well  in  the  design,  and  can 
be  worked  out  in  brick  sizes.     Porch  steps  are  12"  wide,  and  rails  are  V  wide. 

Fixtures. — -In  indicating  bathroom  and  kitchen  fixtures  in  the  plan,  see  Plate 
8,  use  the  following  dimensions  and  directions:  (1)  Bathtub,  2'-3>"  to  2'-6"  wide 
and  from  4'-0"  to  6'-0"  long,  with  either  square  or  rounded  end.  (2)  Lavatory,  20" 
X  21",  with  an  eliptical  bowl  and  double  lines  at  the  back  to  indicate  the  integral 
back  against  the  wall.  (3)  Closet,  15"  circular  seat  and  18"  x  5"  back  or  tank  joined 
by  straight  lines,  the  entire  projection  from  the  wall  2'-2".  (4)  Kitchen  sink,  24" 
X  30",  drawn  with  double  lines,  and  with  an  18"  x  24"  drain  board  at  one  end  or 
both  ends.  (5)  Coal  range,  2'-6"  x  3'-0".  (6)  Boiler,  12"  circle.  (7)  Gas  range, 
24"  x36".  (8)  Dresser,  12"  deep  and  4'-0".  4'-6",  5'-0",  or  6'-0"  long.  There  is 
an  added  width  of  6"  at  the  bottom  for  the  counter  shelf  and  drawers  underneath. 
(9)   Soil  pipe,  6"  circle.     (10)  Wash  tray,  24"  x  26",  drawn  with  double  lines. 

Elevations. — The  usual  heights  for  ceilings  are  as  follows,  though  they  may 
varv  with  the  requirements  of  the  particular  job:  First  story,  9'-0"  or  9'-6";  Second 
story,  8'-6"  or  9'-0";  Cellar,  7'-0"  in  the  clear.  Floor  joists  are  2"  x  10",  and  are 
covered  with  1"  rough  flooring  and  1"  finished  flooring.  The  plaster  on  the  ceilings 
is  1"  thick,  making  the  total  thickness  of  the  floor  13".  Attic  floor  joists  may  be 
2"  X  8".  All  floor  joists  are  set  16"  on  centers  so  lath  joints  will  "break"  properly. 
Rafters  are  2"  x  8"  or  2"  x  10",  set  24"  on  centers.  If  they  are  to  be  plastered  they 
must  be  cross-furred  with  strips  set  16"  on  centers.  Timbers  in  stock  sizes  of  larger 
dimensions  are  used  for  joists,  etc.,  when  required. 

When  it  is  desired  to  have  the  first  floor  set  up  several  steps  above  the  grade, 
the  height  of  the  floor  line  and  tcjp  of  water  table  should  be  2'-8"  above  the  grade 
line.  The  floor  may  also  be  set  just  one  step  (6")  above  the  grade,  and  the  cellar 
windows  set  down  in  areas. 

Exterior  Details. — The  dimensions  from  the  floor  lines  to  window  sills  (top  of 
outside  masonry  sill)  should  be  approximately  2'-3".  The  usual  lengths  of  window 
panes  for  the  first  story  are  28",  30",  or  32",  making  the  openings  S'-6",  5'-10",  or 
6'-2"  in  height  if  a  2"  reveal  of  frame  is  used,  and  higher  if  an  especially  wide 
architrave  is  used.  The  second-story  windows  usually  have  26"  or  28"  glass,  mak- 
ing the  total  height  of  the  openings  5'-2"  or  5'-6".  Kitchen,  pantry  and  bathroom 
window  openings   are   usually  less   than   stated  above  in  order  to  have  the  sills  set 


PRACTICAL    HINTS    ON    DRAWING  13 

at  a  higher  level.  These  dimensions  are  given  as  a  guide  for  laying  out  work,  and 
of  course  may  vary  slightly  with  peculiarities  of  design.  Kitchen  window  sills  are 
usually  3'-0"  to  3'-6"  above  the  floor  line.  This  distance  is  to  the  top  of  the  outside 
masonry  sill.  The  widths  of  windows  and  doors  was  noted  previously  under  the 
head  of  Plans.  The  usual  heights  of  outside  door  openings  are  6'- 10",  7'-0",  and 
7'-6".     In  public  buildings  these  may  be  made  higher. 

The  window  sills  of  masonry  buildings  are  made  of  5"  or  l]^"  stone,  or  4" 
brick  set  on  edge,  with  a  cement  wash.  Heads  are  of  J^/",  10",  or  12"  stone;  or 
brick  ground  to  the  proper  radius;  or  8"  and  4"  brick  set  on  edge;  or  they  are 
made  of  8"  or  12"  brick  segmental  arches.  All  may  have  brick  or  stone  key-stones 
and  skew-blocks,  according  to  design.  These  should  project  2i/"  or  5"  above  the 
top  of  a  flat  arch,  and  if  the  cornice  bed  mould  comes  directly  over  the  second 
story  arches,  either  one  or  two  courses  of  brick  stretchers  should  show  between  the 
top  of  key  block  or  arch  and  the  bottom  of  the  bed  mould.  E.xamples  of  window 
sills,  heads,  etc.,  will  be  found  on  Plate  18.  The  illustrations  will  help  explain  the 
above.    Door  openings  have  5"  or  6"  stone  sills. 

Door  and  window  openings  of  frame  buildings  usuallv  have  a  4"  or  4i/"  plain 
or  moulded  outside  architrave,  and  2"  wood  sills. 

Slate  and  wood  shingle  roofs,  to  be  free  from  leaks,  should  have  at  least  a  30 
degree  pitch,  but  seldom  more  than  45  degrees.  Tin  and  slag  roofs  are  kept  flat, 
but  with  a  pitch  of  not  less  than  ]4"  ^o  the  foot. 

Show  rafters  or  brackets  are  spaced  approximately  24"  on  centers.  Porch 
floors  should  be  3"  to  6"  below  the  floor  of  the  house.  Porch  rails  are  approxi- 
mately 2'-6"  high.  Columns  and  steps  have  been  previously  noted  under  the  head 
of  Plans.  The  height  of  porches  should  be  8'-0"  to  9'-6"  from  the  floor  to  the 
under  side  of  the  plate  or  cornice  soffit.  Water  tables  are  of  stone,  or  brick  on 
edge,  about  8"  to  12"  in  height.     In  frame  structures  they  arc  of  wood. 


PROGRESSIVE  STEPS  IN  THE  DEVELOPMENT  OF  PLANS 

Carefully  study  Plate  8,  and  use  the  information  shown  there  when  drawing 
plans  at  ^"  scale. 

(1) — First  draw  the  front  and  rear  walls  and  indicate  the  parallel  inside  par- 
titions in  their  correct  positions.  In  this  plan  the  outside  walls  should  be  13",  9" 
for  the  brick  and  4"  for  hollow  tile.  The  inside  stud  partitions  are  6"  thick.  The 
length  of  the  lines  should  be  indefinite,  but  approximately  the  width  of  building. 

(2) — Draw  the  side-wall  lines  and  indicate  the  hall  partitions,  and  any  other 
partitions  parallel  to  them.  These  partitions  should  also  be  drawn  with  lines  of 
indefinite  length. 

(3) — All  the  partitions  are  next  drawn  their  entire  lengths,  irrespective  of 
the  position  of  doors,  etc. 

(4) — Indicate  the  positions  and  correct  widths  of  the  inside  doors,  locating 
them  by  center  lines  when  coming  on  the  axes  of  rooms  or  halls.  Locate  and  out- 
line the  fireplace  and  chimney  flues.    The  brick  column  of  the  rear  porch  is  located. 

(5) — Erase  partition  lines  in  the  inside  door  openings,  and  show  which  way 
the  doors  swing.  Draw  the  center  lines  and  indicate  tiie  widths  for  all  window  and 
outside  door  openings.  The  stairs  must  be  figured  out  and  drawn  according  to 
the  heights  of  ceilings  and  the  number  of  steps.  Consult  Plate  9.  This  applies  to 
the  main  and  cellar  stairs.  A  broken  line  separates  them.  Draw  the  4"  x  4"  tiles 
of  the  hearth  for  the  fireplace.  Letter  the  rooms,  halls  and  porch  uniformly  and 
of  a  size  that  is  "in  scale"  with  the  entire  drawing.  Study  Plates  35  and  36  for 
architectural  lettering. 

(6) — Draw  the  outside  steps.  The  window  and  door  openings  should  have 
the  frames  drawn  according  to  the  style  determined  upon.  See  Plate  8.  Complete 
the  drawing  of  the  plan  of  the  fireplace,  following  the  details  shown  on  Plate  8. 
The  radiators  are  shown  in  their  correct  locations.  Their  sizes  and  heights  should 
be  indicated  by  lettering.  Electric  and  gas  outlets  should  likewise  be  shown  in  their 
correct  locations.  Switches  should  be  located  with  an  "S,"  and  dotted  lines  drawn 
from  the  switches  to  the  electric  lights.  The  number  of  lights  at  each  outlet  should 
also  be  shown.  Draw  the  fixtures  of  the  kitchen  and  pantrv  according  to  the  plan 
details  shown  on  Plate  8. 

Draw  the  line  in  the  outside  walls  which  indicates  that  brick  and  hollow  tile 
are  used.  The  line  should  be  4"  from  the  inside  edge  of  the  wall.  Indicate  dififer- 
ent  materials  by  cross-hatching. 

14 


STEPS    /A'    THE    DEIELOPMENT    OF   PLASS 


15 


p^ea±s. :?. 


16 


/'ROGRESSIIE    STEPS    l\    ARCHITECTURAL    DRAIIISC, 


t=2o=fc5_ 


STi;PS    1\    THE    DEVELOPMENT    OF   PL.^NS 


17 


peo:fe.'4 


IS 


I'ROGRESSII  E    STEPS    L\    .IRCIIITECTVR.IL    DR.HflXG 


^P^^cts^  3- 


STEPS    L\    THE    UEIEI.OPMF.ST    OF    PLANS 


19 


© 


u 


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Floats,  e 


20 


PROGRESSIIE    STEPS    IX    ARCIIITECTIRAI.    DRAICIXG 


iNDlCATioM-  OF-  MATER-- 

lALS  .   AND     NoTEcJ-    IN 
■REfERENCE-    T°      fLoOR^ 
pLANS    -JWS    ofpACE,  ■ 


-  ?IE.JT      FLOOIL-  PlkU- 

c/rrAue^  INCH-  =OwE    fooj- 


AT  iJA-R-DEN  City   LIvTY 

/Name  o/'Draoohtjman 
ATtcriiTEoT         (^ 


?=HJ*aU.    T 


;/M//;A'r    UF    PL.  IN 


STEIS    IX    1  ill-:    DEI  Rl.orMEKT    UF    I'L.l\S  21 


Draw  the  exterior  over-all  dimension  lindi,  and  also  the  subordinate  dimen- 
sion lines  locating  the  window  and  door  openings  and  the  projections  or  breaks  in 
the  wall  surfaces  in  the  plan.  All  openings  are  dimensioned  to  centers.  Use 
arrow  heads  or  heavy  dots  for  the  intersections  and  ends  of  dimension  lines.  Also 
run  a  dimension  line  through  the  plan  in  each  direction,  locating  the  main  parti- 
tions of  the  building;  the  dimensions  being  taken  between  the  bare  construction 
of  the  brick  walls  and  stud  surfaces  irrespective  of  furring  or  plaster.  These  dimen- 
sions determine  the  size  of  the  rooms,  halls,  etc. 

Letter  in  the  title  of  the  plan,  scale,  indication  of  materials,  name  of  owner, 
and  architect's  name  as  indicated.  Letter  any  fi.xtures  requiring  it,  and  also  mark 
the  sizes  of  interior  doors. 

The  drawing  is  now  ready  to  ink.  Follow  the  rules  previously  given  for  the 
order  of  inking  the  lines.  Ink  in  the  full  lines  first.  Use  light  lines  for  inking  the 
projection  and  dimension  lines,  the  cross-liatching  of  the  brick  and  hollow  tile,  and 
for  the  radiators. 


22 


PROGRESSIIE    STEPS    Ii\    ARCHITECTIR.IL    DR.IUISG 


1  A  -Hollow  tile. 


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23 


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pK<0^9 


PROGRESSIVE  STEPS  IN  THE  DEVELOPMENT 
OF  ELEVATIONS 

Carefully  study,  and  refer  when  necessary,  to  Plates  16  to  21,  inclusive,  when 
drawing  elevations  at  ^"  scale. 

These  progressive  steps  are  to  be  observed  and  fol/o^ii'J,  ntjt  only  in  this  ele- 
vation, but  in  every  elevation  worked  out.  The  size  and  details  may  vary  with 
the  design,  but  the  method  of  constructing  the  working  drawing  should  always 
be  the  same,  in  order  to  facilitate  the  work  and  get  the  best  results. 

(1) — Draw  the  grade  or  base  line  first.  Keep  the  line  up  high  enough  on  the 
sheet  to  allow  for  the  title  and  lettering  below  and  the  entire  height  of  the  finished 
elevation  above.     Do  not  start  the  drawing  with   roofs  or  cornices  or  side  lines. 

(2)  —  Draw  the  lines  indicating  the  main  corners  of  the  building.  Then  draw 
the  height  of  the  water  table  and  mark  the  story  heights  at  the  side  of  the  eleva- 
tion,  and  from  these  story  marks  draw  lines  lightly  through  the  building. 

(3) — The  cornice  and  roof  are  then  blocked  out  with  light  lines.  The  pitch 
and  shape  of  the  roof  are  determined  by  the  design  and  effect  desired,  and  should 
work  out  correctly  with  the  width  of  the  side  elevation  and  the  height  of  the  ridge 
line.  The  positions  of  the  main  cornice  lines  are  determined  bv  the  construction, 
as  worked  out  at  the  plate  and  the  foot  of  the  rafters.  Approximately,  the  top 
cornice  line  should  be  about  level  with  the  top  of  the  attic  floor  joists.  The  de- 
tail lines  and  the  profile  of  the  cornice  mouldings,  brackets,  etc.,  are  to  be  worked 
out  later.  As  previously  indicated,  the  roof  seldom  has  less  than  a  30  degree  or 
more  than  a  45  degree  pitch,  if  covered  with  slate  or  wood  shingles.  These  have 
a  tendency  to  leak  if  laid  on  a  pitch  of  less  than  30  degrees.  Onlv  the  main  lines 
of  the  cornice  should  be  worked  out  at  this  time. 

(4)- — Get  measurements  of  all  vertical  lines,  such  as  corners,  window  and  door 
jambs  and  centers,  chimneys,  etc.,  from  the  plan,  "ticking"  them  off  accurately  with 
a  strip  of  paper.  Transfer  them  to  the  elevation  and  draw  the  side  lines  of  the 
chimneys  and  window  and  door  openings.  Draw  these  lines  of  indefinite  length. 
Draw  in  the  center  lines  lightly  for  all  openings.  These  center  lines  will  be  found 
of  great  help  later  in  working  out  the  details  of  the  windows  and  doors,  and  also 
maintain  "balance"  in  the  design  and  details. 

(5) — A  projecting  band  of  brick,  which  is  optional,  is  shown  at  the  second 
floor  level.  Draw  the  heads  and  sills  of  the  window  and  door  openings.  The 
heights  of  these  are  determined  by  the  design  and  effect  desired.  The  sills  are 
approximately  2'-3"  from  the  floor  line  to  the  top  of  the  outside  sill.    The  heights 

24 


STEPS    li\    THE    DEIELOPMENT    OF    ELEI.ITIONS 


2S 


® 

Finished    (jrade  Limel 



. 

,  Attic 

,  Second 

^  fLOOB- 

_^^^piN    5RADE, 

^  Fellah- 

0 

® 

P'iUdt^ia 


26 


PROGRESSirE    STEPS    /A'    .iRCIIITECTURAL    DR.IIf'I.XG 


PrioXsi.     11 


STEPS    IX    THE    DEVELOPMENT    OF    ELEVATIONS 


27 


1 

X 

@ 

y^ 

\. 

,X 

\. 

\ 

/ 

1 

1 

1 

— 

-  ■   — 





® 

4=$ojti- 1:2. 


2i 


PROGRESS/IE    STEPS    /A'    ARCHITECTURAL    URAllISG 


Ho:*:^    \3 


STEPS    IX    THE    DEVELOPMENT    OF    ELETATIONS 


'^^U~^b^-f-r  ■yp^^z^~^^ 


ffl 


'M 


i'     'I 


m 


.V  'I I'  '' 


peorb^  14 


30 


PROGRESSII  E    STEPS    IN    ARCHITECTURAL    DRAIIISG 


'  kocKiNc?-  OUT-  MAIN-  liNEc;-<^ Dorm tEjci/' 


■Note;  This  may 

Wim  AtiEAS^/or-  i  I    J — l^ooTiwiss  f  Walls  BeloW  <Vradel-n 
Cellar.-  Wiwpowj  •  [  ^    ^^ ' 


f^c^Jbt.  IS 


STEPS    IN    THE    DEl'ELOPMENT    OF    ELEVATIONS  31 


of  openings  of  the  windows  should  approximate  5'-6"  for  the  first  story,  and  5'-0" 
for  the  second  story,  though  these  dimensions  may  V'ary  slightly.  Draw  in  the  details 
of' the  window  heads,  using  Plate  18  for  reference.  In  this  example  10"  or  12" 
ground  brick  flat  arches  and  key  stones  2j/j"  or  S"  higher,  are  used.  The  method 
of  getting  the  radius  centers  is  also  shown  on  Plate  18.  Indicate  whether  the  chim- 
ney caps  are  of  stone,  brick  or  terra-cotta.  They  should  be  shown  as  uniformly  as 
possible.     Draw  the  gusset  boards  where  the  chimneys  and  roof  intersect. 

(6) — Draw  the  cornice  profiles  and  moulding  lines  clearly,  according  to  the 
particular  style  of  cornice  determined  upon,  and  draw  the  modillions  or  brackets. 
These  are  from  16"  to  24"  or  more  on  centers,  usually  24",  with  the  end  modillion 
center  line  coming  on  the  corner  wall-line.  The  spaces,  center  to  center,  may  have 
to  be  adjusted  to  divide  the  length  evenly.  Draw  the  bed  mould  below  the  mr)dil- 
lions.     Cornice  profiles  and  details  are  shown  on  Plates  16  and  17. 

The  lines  of  window  frames,  sash  and  muntins  are  next  drawn,  and  the  door 
head  and  door  worked  out  according  to  design,  ^\'hen  used  in  masonry  walls,  the 
usual  thickness  or  "reveal"  of  a  door  frame  or  window  frame  is  2"  from  the  side 
face  of  the  opening.  The  sash  shows  an  additional  2"  at  the  side.  A  single  line 
at  14"  scale  indicates  each  of  these  surfaces.  Draw  the  wood  sill  2"  (double  line 
to  show  wash),  the  lower  sash  rail  3",  and  meeting  rail  and  muntins  1"  in  width. 
Any  peculiarity  of  design  in  frames  and  sash  will  have  to  be  specially  detailed. 

(7) — The  dormer  windows  should  now  be  blocked  out  with  side  lines  and 
the  roof  and  cornice  lines,  all  of  which  should  be  of  a  size  and  shape  to  be  in  har- 
mony with  the  plan,  and  in  correct  proportion  and  style  to  harmonize  with  tlie 
elevations.  Draw  the  side  elevations  of  the  dormers  which  front  on  the  side  eleva- 
tion of  the  house,  carrying  the  cornice  lines,  etc.,  across  from  the  front.  The  bot- 
tom or  sill  line  is  regulated  in  height  by  the  point  where  the  front  face  of  the 
dormer  strikes  the  sloping  roof  in  the  side  view.     Consult  Plate  19. 

(8) — Draw  the  mouldings  and  modillions  or  brackets  of  the  dormers  and  cor- 
nice. The  frame,  sash,  and  the  muntin  lines  arc  then  drawn  for  the  dormer  win- 
dows. Draw  the  cellar  window  frames  and  sash.  Brick  lines  and  stone  indication 
may  now  be  put  in,  but  sparingly  and  well  placed. 

All  descriptive  lines  of  the  elevation  have  now  been  completed.  Such  notes  as 
are  necessary  should  be  neatly  and  carefully  lettered,  the  lettering  to  be  in  propor- 
tion, uniform  in  height  and  style,  and  placed  on  the  drawing  in  positions  to  look 
well.  Make  note  of  the  brick  and  stone,  frame,  slate,  shingle  or  tin  roofs,  hanging 
or  box  gutters  and  conductors,  size  of  glass,  and  grade  and  floor  lines.  Repeat  the 
notes  only  where  necessary. 


VARIATIONS    IN    PLANS  AND  ELEVATIONS 

To  simplify  the  explanation,  the  plan  and  elevation  have  been  shown  as  direct 
and  simple  as  possible.  Certain  variations  in  both  plan  and  elevation  might  be 
suggested  as  adding  interest  to  the  problem.  For  example,  in  the  plan  a  rear  stair 
may  be  added  by  enlarging  the  area  of  the  plan,  and  the  pantry  might  possibly  be 
rearranged  in  such  a  way  as  to  get  a  coat  closet  from  the  hall  bv  placing  the  passage 
doors  to  the  kitchen  near  the  outside  wall.  This  would  reverse  the  location  of  the 
china  closet,  and  also  require  a  change  in  the  location  of  the  kitchen  range  and 
chimney.  An  entry  with  a  cold  closet  and  space  for  a  refrigerator  might  also  be 
added  to  the  kitchen. 

These  are,  however,  details  which  may  be  incorporated  in  the  plan  at  the  op- 
tion of  the  draughtsman  or  may  be  made  necessary  by  the  requirements  of  the  client. 

The  porch,  or  an  open  terrace,  may  be  located  at  the  side  of  the  house  instead 
of  at  the  rear,  with  French  windows  leading  to  it  from  the  living-room.  The  fire- 
place may  perhaps  be  at  the  end  rather  than  at  the  side  of  the  living-room,  with 
built-in  bookcases  and  windows  over  them,  at  either  side.  This  location  for  the 
chimney  would  not  look  so  well  on  the  elevation  as  it  is  in  the  position  shown. 

In  the  elevation,  the  front  entrance  door  and  the  dormer  windows  could  have 
variations.  For  instance,  the  door  might  have  a  pilastered  and  columned  entrance, 
with  either  a  pediment  head,  or  a  frieze  and  cornice  with  a  wrought  iron  railing 
over  it.  The  dormers  might  be  made  with  a  pediment,  or  a  segment  head.  The 
main  roof  might  be  gabled  at  the  ends,  with  either  a  wood  cornice,  or  a  brick  para- 
pet with  a  cut  stone  coping  on  the  rake,  instead  of  the  hip  roof  as  shown. 

The  height  of  the  chimneys  should  be  either  level  with  the  ridge  of  the  roof, 
or  slightly  above  that.  The  living-room  chimney  at  the  side  should  be  stepped 
back  with  weatherings  of  stone,  and  the  location  of  the  side  dormer  arranged  to  al- 
low as  much  space  as  possible  between  the  dormer  cornice  and  the  chimney. 


32 


ELEyATIUSS    OF   CORNICES   AND    CHIMNEYS 


33 


Hoit:^/?e  COR.N1CEJ-.  J-HOWN  TO  it  UJ"ED  •  AUO-^^/KC'AME.R.tL-  RgOfJ*-  6  GABLE- ENDJ 


Box- CORNICE: 
VITH-JAODILLIONJ  - 


5-  BE-D  •  MOULD  ■ 


fLAT 
c/offiT 


J>LAm-66R.NlCE:J 


WIT-H--  fLA.T- BEADED    fLAT 
c/oFflTcZ-AND  S-frF.T° 

3ED- MOULD-        .     P^^^=^ 


-Hanging 
Gutter- 


Corn  ICfc   WlTfi- 
MODILLIONJ"-  6 

B&D -Mould  • 


Box-  Cornice 
<f  'SfcD  •  Mould  • 

Drop . AT 


fooT  Of 
Batige. 


c/uNKU 

Cutter-  tj 


GABLt-  End 

WITH-  ME-GE: 
DR.OP.,pUE.Lmc/ 
5- BRACKET  • 


^7 

Lc/av/ep  •  OuTLooKcttJ 
-  24'-o  c 

OirLootcER.-  ON  -  I 

ANGLE.  '  C/£CTION-(l/iiOWIN(? 

c/lMPLEr-  OYEC-ttANClNG  -  GUTTER,-  NOTCHtD  • 

COR.MlCt  •  "W ITH  •  OUTLCDKELc/"-     ON  •  TO  •  RAf  TtlL-  ENDc/- 


c/lMPLE:  • 

Moulded 
GA3LL-  GlillNICt- 


Cut  Jtone. 

Chimney 

Cat= 


□  f     I    Terra-  (5>tta 

^^     OHlMNEY- 

TopJ- 


r. 


C-HIMMEY 


r 


^       \      r  :^-      VlT-H  BtlCK 

XDUGH   (-AiT    :z-  CaV 


V  A 


"^c/CALt  tLMTIOMc^QDIiNICtcr-^CfllMNEY/v 


?=^^^x:fc^  16 


34 


PROGRESSll'E   STEPS   IN   ARCIIITECTVRAL   DR.IiriXG 


cCWe-athins 


Box     '-N, 

S'UTTER^ 


Rj30P 


.Tin 
Limed 


T-tl 


f^^S 


ToTAur 

V-A" 


'^^^^^^ 


^    Ifc  JO-  24 


Bo 


.OCKlNG 


..^ 


■^        I 


i  I    6"to.12"     ^ 


Minimum -tProjectiom 


MoDii-LioN5  Z  Jo  4  Crep 


1^  BRiCK.  Valu 


^^         ^  <-■  ^  -       ^ 


MODILLIOSI 
PHOJECTIOVI^O^ 
»/ANE    OpTlOVIAL  • 


A>AILINC 
PIECE. 


■  |>LASTET1^ 


-  £LEVA.71o:i—  -  c/fcCTlON— 

M^^^c/ckLfz'])t^k]icS-c^-  Typical-  tox-CooicE: 


t/HEAT-H 


JhEA7 


RISING 
(SuTTEls-^ 


xr 


jj^.-i       i"-'^ (\_A 


--fLLYATION" 


-c/iCTION- 


^^^  c/cALt-  DE:TAILg;-c^  Co^NlCE:  -  V71T& 


(Sutter- 


(fUTTER- 

,Tm 
Lined 


cJiATE.- 


DIMEN3IOH.5 
OPTIOHAL- 


6  To- 12" 


_:  Elevation 

•COlNlCE'DnAM 


-g/ection- 

COIiNlCfc-¥ITii-J(JNK^  ^ 


ELEVATIONS    OF   MASONRY    IflNnOlf    HEADS    AND    SILLS 


35 


c/flOWIN5    pPLOGREJ-J-cVE    JTEPcT       (N     DRAWING      fRAMti    oTA-IH ;  AHD-  MUNTI  Nc/- 

Tttnill Ill 


•4  BRICK- 

511-1- 


?  RowLo«rk.-44£At>  ?awc..4'WL«ck_  -4"^i>W  Lock- 


^ 


ift 


m 


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^cJlVu. 


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■Radios  •poiNT 
of  ARCH  -Dbav) 
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Former  jo  ■ 

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(i'ENTEnLlNE. 


Wide:. 
fPAME- 


f  RAME 

.  (SVx 

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JASH 


(T-  3t°ne-  Key 


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+AEAc>.  £•  Key 


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Weap 


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o/TA<:ccReD 

Key 


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Watcp 


WIPE- Double.  WiNDoWs    f 
/   V-* 

ARCH.-ic-EY.iT-H^.  J.-5.EW-3U.K3-      ^^^^^^.  f^^p  W(NC«^ 

CTAftABER-  f.  ANCLES- At.V. 5 ABLE.  WlTH  ■  CIaSE  WENT    3A5U 

^RW.PECpEHmS^.  gflKED-pSAHSoMoVE^- 

^  /4^  cfckit '  Elevatiohc;-  of 

CELLAR- wmoo.)     MiLc/oNLY- Window-  HeADc;-  cS-g/illg/- 


iTi,i:i|riiimiii^T^g'-^ 


^pea:*i^  ie> 


36 


PRUGRESSIIE    STEPS    /A'    ARCHITECTURAL    DRAHTNG 


c/lDE-  E'LEVATI*N5-  T"-  bet-    EXACJ-  pR/5flU 

T(N  RooF 


t 


-, 

Roof 


With-  Double- VindoW^ 


■pa  OF 


<^VT  5HoW-  Rafters  • 


1     /'Poof 


Anothetz-  foWM-^- 


■n^oMxro..  ^  /         (5ABLE1  -Head- ^  '^ 


Pc>RM.E.U-- 


•  ^p.  fAoULO 


■pRACk 


4     ^ 
CTASIHiJ 


1  MULLIoN 

21'JAsHEACH  Side. 


=J  J= 


C2/INGLE--5  PoUBLEr-  DK" WiNDOVc;'  JK- 

fRAME--  Wall- 


iN-fB-A-W-E.  Wall- 


^^c/ciLf:-  !:L£YiTIONGy•c^DOI^t2i^/'^  cS-^-y 


l^^^xxfci,  l-^ 


ELErATIOSS  OF  MISCELLANEOUS  EXTERIOR  DETAILS 


37 


,'Tiu  TSoop 


J"Late  R.OOF 


iEAM 

, — ,  — ^=" 

— f        PRACK.ETS 
fRONT- 


•  INC-H 


c/eALL'f:LtViT10Nc/-0f 


VA  WOUJ'  PORC-fi'  COLUMNc/- 6-  COLNICtc/-  f:TC-o^-¥GDD- 


•Set  IN  beT»4EEN 

IrtN 
/■  flLtSTEP- 


J^  INC«     c/cALE-- 


/JoTE  That  "" 

BLIND     IJ-MlNSEtg. 

AT  JASH    Uine; 


(&  BLIND  J"- 
7, 


COMDUCTOIL-  HEADJ"- 

^\UCH-  c/cALE- 

MIc/CtLUNEOUe/' 


^-t 


-Jl 


46719 


^  iXTtLIOR^- 


PROGRESSIVE  STEPS   IN  THE  DRAWING  OF  CORNICES  ON  ONE- 
QUARTER  INCH  SCALE  ELEVATIONS 

(1) — Draw   the   line   indicating  the  main  corner  of  the  building. 

(2) — Draw  the  top  and  bottom  lines  of  the  cornice  proper,  the  height  of 
which  is  determined  in  working  out  the  details  at  the  plate  and  foot  of  the  rafter. 
The  depth  of  this  cornice  in  a  house  of  ordinary  size  should  be  about  6"  or  7". 

(3) — Draw  the  lines  indicating  the  mouldings  in  the  cornice  proper.  The  exact 
position  of  these  lines  is  determined  by  the  draughtsman's  knowledge  of  the  profile 
desired  for  the  cornice. 

(4) — Draw  the  profile  clearly  and  the  lines  indicating  the  bed  mould  and  facia 
at  the  back  of  the  modillions.  These  are  determined  by  the  draughtsman's  knowl- 
edge of  proportion  in  cornice  work. 

(5) — The  end  modillion  on  the  front  elevation  and  the  side  of  the  first  modil- 
lion  on  the  side  elevation  should  be  drawn.  Draw  the  profiles  of  the  bed  mould. 
The  center  line  of  the  end  modillion  is  approximately  on  an  axis  with  the  corner 
line  of  the  building.  Draw  center  lines  for  all  modillions,  approximately  24"  on 
centers.  If  these  do  not  space  evenly,  the  distance  from  center  to  center  should  be 
adjusted  so  that  they  will.  The  uniform  distance  between  centers  may  vary  with  the 
design. 

(6) — Draw  all  side  lines  of  the  modillions,  and  then  lines  indicating  the  bot- 
toms of  them.  Draw  in  the  lines  indicating  the  profile  of  the  moulding  at  the  in- 
tersection of  the  same  with  the  under  side  of  the  cornice.  When  the  members  of 
mouldings  are  very  small  the  profile  is  indicated  by  a  line  showing  the  general  shape 
of  the  moulding. 


38 


STEPS    l\    DR.UriNG    MAIN    .l.\D    PORCH    CORNICES,    AND    COLUMNS 


39 


® 


(D 


(D 


© 


COSINICE   WlT-H- 
Box    GUTTER^ 


J /-»_^^— 


COENICEV/ITH- 
(J)  GAjNK  GUTTER- 


c/t£Pc/-  TAKtN-c^^DMWING-  MAIN-GdLNIC&c/- 

-iT-^iHcii-e/cALtr^ 


■R=<=F 


Plan 


%'T«ick^ 


(-UTTER. 


I  I    I 


(iLUMS 


0 


@ 


® 


cSsLUMNt/  "V 


Detail  of-- 

CORNICE- 6- 
COLUVlNcZ-OF 
POR.Cit~  •     C 


Hn^l  ,!',  'ilnr 


CAP 


BAJt. 


Drawing-  Polch-  CbMict-^-SLUMNc/- 


^pgorfeL-    :2J 


PROGRESSIVE  STEPS  IN  THE  DRAWING  OF  PORCH  CORNICES 
AND  COLUMNS  AT  ONE-QUARTER  INCH  SCALE 

(1) — Frf)m  the  plan  "tick  off"  accurately  with  a  strip  of  paper  the  corners  of 
the  building  and  the  center  lines  of  all  columns.  Then  draw  the  center  lines  in 
their  correct  locations,  Plate  21. 

(2) — Indicate  the  width  of  the  column  according  to  the  desired  proportions. 
Also  indicate  the  top  and  bottom  lines  of  the  entablature  over  the  column.  The 
dimensions  are  determined  by  the  draughtsman's  knowledge  of  the  height  the  col- 
umn and  entablature  should  be  to  have  the  proper  proportions,  and  also  by  require- 
ments of  location,  etc. 

Draw  lines  indicating  the  frieze  of  the  cornice.  These  should  come  directly 
over  the  necks  of  the  columns.  Draw  in  the  line  indicating  the  height  of  the  base 
(one-half  of  the  diameter  of  the  column),  and  another  line  at  one-third  of  the 
height  of  the  column  which  is  where  the  entasis  begins. 

(3) — One-third  of  the  column  is  drawn  straight,  and  the  lines  from  this  point 
to  the  cap  have  a  gradual  taper  or  entasis.  The  width  at  the  neck  should  be  five- 
sixths  of  the  width  at  the  base.  This  entasis  is  drawn  properly  by  starting  with  the 
pencil  point  close  to  the  edge  of  the  triangle,  then  gradually  sloping  the  pencil  so 
the  line  will  extend  beyond  the  edge  of  the  triangle  at  the  center,  and  gradually 
returning  to  the  edge  as  the  other  end  is  reached.  This  produces  a  very  slight  curve, 
which  forms  a  true  outline  of  the  upper  two-thirds  of  the  column.  The  point  should 
be  very  sharp,  and  the  entasis  drawn  accurately  in  regard  to  width  and  balance. 
Draw  a  line  indicating  the  depth  of  the  cornice  proper,  the  location  of  which  is 
determined  by  the  draughtsiiian's  knowledge  of  proportion.  The  depth  of  this  cor- 
nice would  be  approximately  5"  or  6". 

(4) — A  line  should  be  drawn  indicating  the  roof  and  gutter.  The  profile  lines 
of  the  cornice  mouldings,  and  cap,  necking,  and  base  of  the  column  should  be  care- 
fully drawn. 

A  thorough  study  of  the  orders  of  architecture,  and  of  the  mouldings  and  fa 
cias  in  connection  with  cornices  is  imperative  before  the  draughtsman  can  expect  to 
draw  these  profiles  with  any  degree  of  spirit  and  certainty. 

For  further  study  and  reference  consult  Plates  16,  17,  20,  25,  26,  31,  32,  33 
and  34. 


DETAILS    OF    IVINDOlf    .-ISO    DOOR    FRAMES 


41 


SHeA7HIN<i 
f  INISH 


-fPAME-Z:' 


Architrave 


T^IM 


c/iLL 


PooiL-FMMfc. 

;DooLiN-7" 

g/TUP' VAIL- 


pusTEP-  (5DOOLIN-7 


Cf:LL/lIL-WlMDOW-  IH' 
16'c5TONEV/A.LL' 


■D-HVlNDOW-fUMfc 
1N-1"c/TUD-¥ALL- 


MoKLP 


S 


^ 


1 


nnnnw: 


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Plan 


;^Mn^- 


;-7 

."T^! J.  t^Ac.t'HiTRAVE: 


Plah-^- 

MULLION-  fOL 
DoUBLt-D'H: 
WlNDOWd"- 


WtETlNG- 


c/lL- 


I)  H- Window- fRAML • 

1N''^"I)S-1C]C-WAI.L 

W1TH-2"R£VE-AL- 

0^fR.A)/lE:- 


BejWeen  Sash- 


.Siui- 


OPENING- 


Plan-^  CAcTEMEnt- Window;, 

Fli£NCH:-WlKDOWJ-  <5  DooiLcT- 
IK-  MAc:?ONR-Y-  VALLe; 


17z  ^CALt- P£TJliy"-^¥lNDOV-&D(S)lfMMEe/' 


■F$.oatj^   2.:^. 


42 


PROGRESSIIE    STEPS    IN    ARCHITECTURAL    DR.IIITXG 


e>''iim 


-^''Moulded 


WlNO 
©REAVC 

/JoT£ 

Of  TEN 

5ufts(riTyrio 


(§Jam"E) 


-VALIOUJ  •  fORMc5 

^Window- <5l)oo5^ 


"I'LoorJN 


hef-c^  ke/£ ' 


J/E?T+i  oF  Bo^  AT  Least  SL/i'-  <rLEATi-  . 
Outside-  <^sin<j-  lj/gTH\<:K.  x^/i'"  W)t-« 

<J(51NT-  MoOLDATBR)c:K-  -ALLaTHER- 

MATERIAL-  IN  BoX-^'TWICK-YEMEERy^"- 
c/aS H  pdxr  KET5 .  €  •  5AS  H  •  l/zJH  \CK-  • 

f>ARTiN<S'  ;?TTiip-  >i'-  :sp>T'S.  /i'T+^icK- 
OuTSiPE   Sill  2_|4'-(H5iPE-,5iLuiyyT«i<=*«-- 


C2/1LL 
PLastep- 
■+ floLLoW-TltE- 


1/2^^c/cJlll^D£TAil2;' 


T^£o3te-c^B> 


PROGRESSIVE  STEPS   IN   DRAWING  DETAILS  OF  DOUBLE-HUNG 
WINDOW  FRAMES  AT  SCALE  OR  FULL  SIZE 

( 1 ) — The  width  of  the  wail  at  the  jamb  is  first  indicated ;  and  furring  and  plas- 
ter lines  are  shown,  Plate  24. 

(2) — The  main  lay-out  of  the  window-box  is  drawn.  All  material  should  be 
/^"  thick  except  the  outside  casing,  which  is  ]%"  and  formed  to  receive  the  shutter. 
The  2"  reveal  of  the  frame  set  in  the  brick  wall  is  shown.  The  outside  lining  sets 
back  4"  from  the  face  of  the  wall  and  the  1%"  outside  casing  and  joint  mould  are 
nailed  to  the  outside  of  the  frame.  The  outside  face  of  the  pulley  stile  should  be 
shown  2"  from  the  brick  jamb,  and  the  depth  inside  the  box  is  about  2i4"  so  the 
weights  can  work  freely.  With  the  pulley  stile  and  back  lining  each  %",  the  com- 
plete depth  of  the  box  can  easily  be  determined.  The  width  of  the  box  is  ascertamed 
by:  the  thickness  of  the  sash,  which  regulate  the  sash  pockets  (in  the  example  shown 
on  Plate  24  this  dimension  is  1>^")  ;  the  width  taken  up  bv  the  parting  strip  (^")  ; 
and  the  width  necessary  for  the  stop  bead  which  keeps  the  lower  sash  in  place. 
This  stop  can  be  made  as  small  as  1",  but  its  usual  width  is  2"  or  more.  The  latter 
size  gives  better  fastening  space  for  curtains,  shades,  etc.  The  thickness  of  the  stop 
is  usually  ^",  thus  making  the  face  of  the  outside  lining,  the  parting  strip,  and 
the  window  stop  all  on  a  line,  each  projecting  as  it  does  ^"  beyond  the  face  of  the 
pulley  stile. 

(3) — The  inside  finish  and  mouldings  are  drawn,  and  the  sash  shown  in  the 
inside  sash  pocket.  The  dimension  from  the  face  of  the  pulley  stile  to  the  glass  is 
usually  2",  and  the  thickness  of  the  moulding  and  the  putty  holding  the  glass  in  place 
is  ^"  or  jA".  The  inside  jamb  casing  is  shown  "s"  thick  and  the  veneer  %".  The 
window  stop  should  cover  the  joint  of  the  veneer ;  and  the  inside  architrave  or  trim 
should  cover  the  joint  made  by  the  jamb  casing.  In  9"  brick  walls  the  inside  jamb 
casing  and  the  veneer  arc  usually  omitted  for  lack  pf  space;  and  the  window  stop  and 
trim  should  overlap,  or  a  small  strip  of  veneer  be  inserted  to  cover  the  joint.  In 
the  best  work  a  ground  should  be  set  to  come  flush  with  the  face  of  plaster,  to  act  as 
a  level  and  provide  for  the  secure  nailing  of  the  trim. 

In  the  steps  taken  in  drawing  the  section  through  the  sill,  it  will  be  noticed  that 
the  detail  of  the  plan  of  the  window  frame  is  so  placed  on  the  drawing  that  the 
members  may  easily  be  projected  to  the  section  detail  of  the  sill.  The  same 
method  of  procedure  is  used  as  in  drawing  the  plan  detail,  the  width  of  the  wall  and 
the  section  through  the  masonry  sill  being  drawn  in  first.     The  outside  wood  sill 

43 


44 


PROGRESSIIE   STEPS   IX     IRCHITECTIRAL    DRAIIISG 


' 

1 
1 

Bpk^k- 

<:5pENlN<5f 

d'pACEfoR, 
/c/A5+t 


J^ 


^ 


■^rf^ 


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@ 


Z  fRoki-  BR1CH_ 

■pj-  SA5H   LiNC 


IHSIDE. 

.1/  jY^*^^^^ 


14: 


j^VENEEJL 


itt 


:e 


ANO.jeiHT 


pC^ 


^"  ("HE  BRICK.) 


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-JN^ir>E    AMD  ■ 
Ve  irfHT  E»X-  £)li?CKET^  OVTSlDf  flNIStt- 


PEOGHt  JJlVfc-e/TfcPc/-  .^DfcTilLING- 1  ■  ^ 
■D-H-WINDOV-  fEiMt-  m'MAc50NLY-  WALL-  - 


Ao-[£.  -Jamb  ■  s-  Weat? 

BriN'S-  SIMILAR- ONE- 
flEAD-  {4a6-  13^" Yoke.- in 


PL/lN-  PLA-GEP  •  IK-POcTlTJOM- 
To-PR.Oc)£:CT  •  LlHEJ'^  • 
MEMBEKii;-  TO-  c/JLL-  DETAIL 

!)ELOV- 


AND.  LoWcfi- 

■Rail-  V-  5a?»h- 

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Bpict  WAH_ 


C/tCTION-  THROUGH"  JILL' 


P^ic*^:24 


STEPS  IN  DRAWING  DETAILS  OF    DOUBLE-HUNG    WINDOW   FRAMES  45 

should  be  from  1%"  to  234"  in  thickness,  and  set  on  a  pitch  to  make  it  more  water- 
tight. Sometimes  the  sill  has  the  upper  surface  rabbeted  to  receive  the  screen.  It 
will  also  be  noticed  that  the  lower  surface  is  shown  at  a  greater  angle  of  pitch  than 
the  upper,  thus  securing  a  maximum  thickness  of  the  sill  for  the  amount  of  material 
used.  The  back  of  the  sill  is  rabbeted  to  receive  the  inside  wood  sill  or  stool.  The 
sill  is  cut  to  a  sharp  wash  where  it  meets  the  lower  rail  of  the  sash. 

The  window  stop  and  veneer  are  shown  to  conform  to  the  plan,  and  the  inside 
sill,  usually  of  \yi"  material,  projects  with  a  moulded  nosing  far  enough  to  cover 
the  apron  or  trim  below.  The  lower  rail  of  the  sash  is  usually  shown  3"  wide  from 
the  sill  to  the  glass.  The  projection  of  die  masonry  sill  beyond  the  wall  is  about 
1".     Furring,  plaster,  and  ground  are  in  the  same  relation  as  shown  on  the  plan. 

Where  a  wide  outside  architrave  is  used  in  place  of  the  2"  reveal  of  frame  as 
here  shown,  the  back  lining  of  the  box  sets  flush  with  the  opening  instead  of  being 
recessed.  The  frame  should  have  a  2"  x  3"  piece  nailed  to  sides  and  top  to  form  a 
wind-break  and  anchor.  The  frame  should  also  be  set  nearer  the  face  of  the  wall, 
bringing  the  joint  moulding  forward  so  as  to  show  about  1"  of  brickwork  in  the 
jambs.     See  illustration  on  Plate  23. 

In  stud  walls  omit  the  inside  veneer  and  jamb  casing,  and  have  the  outside 
architrave  flush  with  the  outside  finish  of  the  building.  Also  omit  the  back  lining, 
as  the  stud  forms  the  back  of  the  weight  box.  For  further  study  and  reference  con- 
sult Plates  22  and  23. 


PROGRESSIVE  STEPS  IN  THE  DRAWING  OF  THREE-QUARTER 

AND  FULL  SIZE  DETAILS 

In  the  working  out  of  a  detail  of  any  part  of  the  building,  the  draughtsman 
must  first  ascertain  the  conditions  or  limitations  to  "work  to."  Indicate  these  cor- 
rectly and  then  proceed  with  the  drawing. 

In  the  example,  Plate  25,  in  drawing  a  detail  of  the  main  cornice,  the  wall 
plate  is  set  above  the  attic  floor  joists  to  gain  height  in  the  attic.  The  height  of  the 
plate  should  always  be  determined  in  relation  to  the  attic  floor  line  as  shown  on 
54"  scale  elevations.  Often  for  economy  in  construction,  and  to  have  a  low  cornice 
line  in  elevation,  both  the  rafters  and  attic  floor  joists  rest  on  the  wall  plate,  as 
shown  on  Plate  17. 

The  steps  taken  in  drawing  the  cornice  detail  may  be  described  as  follows: 
( 1 ) — Draw  the  top  of  the  brick  wall,  either  9"  or  13"  thick. 

(2) — Draw  the  plate  and  rafter  foot,  with  the  correct  roof  pitch,  and  locate 
the  attic  floor  joists.  The  plate  is  usually  2"  x  6",  2"  x  8"  or  3"  x  8".  The  details 
above  are  determined  by  conditions  as  shown  on  the  34"  scale  elevations  of  the 
house. 

(3) — Indicate  the  lines  of  the  sheathing  and  roof  material  each  1"  thick,  and 
drawn  until  they  intersect  the  line  marking  the  extreme  projection  of  the  cornice. 
This  should  be  scaled  from  the  y^"  scale  elevations. 

(4) — Draw  the  top  and  bottom  lines  of  the  finished  cornice  as  scaled  from  the 
^"  elevations,  and  then  the  profile  and  soflit  in   their  correct  positions. 

(5) — The  position  of  the  sunk  gutter  should  be  determined  and  drawn,  allow- 
ing enough  space  around  it  for  blocking  and  supports.  The  gutter  should  not  cut 
too  deeply  into  the  rafters.  The  main  rafters  may  project  to  receive  the  cornice,  or 
for  economy,  shorter  length  main  rafters  may  be  used  ending  at  the  face  of  the 
wall.  If  these  latter  are  used  short  pieces  or  blocking  must  be  spiked  to  the  ends 
of  these  rafters  and  to  the  plate,  for  the  support  of  the  cornice. 

(6) — The  modillions  and  bed  mould  should  be  drawn  to  conform  with  the  y^," 
scale  elevations.  The  nailing  pieces  for  tlie  cornice  and  bed  mould  are  shown.  Pro- 
vision must  be  made  for  blocking  to  support  the  cornice.  The  tin  lining  of  the  gut- 
ter should  project  down  over  the  edge,  and  up  under  the  slate  or  shingles  far  enough 
to  make  the  gutter  water-tight.  Anchor  bolts  arc  indicated.  These  should  be  ap- 
proximately 4'-0"  on  centers,  and  should  be  placed  in  the  wall  as  it  is  being  built. 
All  lettering  and  cross-hatching  should  be  put  in  last.  All  finishing  woodwork 
should  be  'A"  thick,  except  mouldings  which  are  heavier. 

46 


STEPS  IN   DRAinSG   DETAILS   OF   CORNICES 


47 


I'iHrAWlNG- 


ALLfiMi5H- 


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7 


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P^oou.   :23- 


MOULDINGS  AND  PROFILES 

A  draughtsman  should  be  familiar  with  the  various  mouldings  and  profiles  most 
commonly  used  in  architectural  drawing,  and  be  able  to  designate  them  by  their 
technical  names.  He  should  practice  continually  on  the  drawing  of  profiles,  both 
at  34"  scale  and  at  full  size,  so  that  he  will  be  able  to  draw  them  rapidly  and  cor- 
rectly. He  will  find  that  even  the  most  complicated  cornice,  belt-course,  archi- 
trave, or  trim  is  made  up  of  simple  curves,  fillets,  and  facias,  joined  together  in 
proper  arrangement  and  proportion  to  obtain  the  desired  effect  when  seen  as  a  whole. 

It  is  as  important  to  have  the  mouldings  in  good  proportion  as  it  is  to  have 
the  entire  building  proportioned  correctly,  and  if  the  draughtsman  understands  the 
units  he  can  readily  draw  an  entire  group  of  mouldings,  forming  either  a  cornice, 
architrave,  belt-course,  cap,  or  base. 

On  Plate  26  are  shown  some  of  the  principal  mouldings  drawn  to  a  large  scale, 
and  below  them  the  profiles  of  some  entire  cornices  at  a  smaller  scale.  By  com- 
paring these  it  may  be  seen  how,  with  the  various  mouldings  used  in  connection 
with  facias  or  flat  surfaces,  almost  any  design  of  moulding  or  profile  can  be  formed. 


48 


MOVLDINGS    .IND    PROFILES 


49 


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Brickl  or.  T~RAK"-el-     ■ 


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52 


PROGRESSIIE   STEPS   IN   ARCHITECTURAL   DRAKTXG 


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fklERIOR    WALL>;  •    I5"br1CK.  fUR.R.EO  ■ 


■  Elevation  • 

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T^  BE  ENCLOSED   "Exterior  Wall5 

j  c^'SRicK.  5-4^ -Hollow  Tile.  OB- ■ 

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_!  To    BE     STUCCOED  .-  ijABLSJ  TO 

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ETJ-  OTS.-  MAY-  -Have  REGULAT?- 

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R-AKe:- 


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£LeVAT10N- 


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-y-    Wing-  |2'o"x2o'o".— Rear.  ExTENc/ioN 

fl'o'      6'o">;  l8'o"-— FoT^CH    lo'o'WlDE.-<£ 
Jo  BE  ENCLOJ'ED--f%TERIOE  WALLJ-  \i' 


1 


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'^°        c/ToRlEc/.- Mai N   CToRNICE   MOOLDED       /l 

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iii^J^iL 


?^<Cfci.    3o 


54 


PROGRESSllE   STEPS   /A'    ARCHITECTURAL   DRAIII.XG 


CeneR-al    NotEcT  on   PROPOR-TIONc/  of  THEi  ORDERjc/--  In   DIAMETE:Ex/•(D)• 
lUJCAN■7  D-  Doric-  8d-1ohicc|  d--£,  Co-r.int«ian 

lOD  -  ENTABLATUR-E.  IM   EAC++    ORDER^ 
/4  OF  -HeisHT  OF  CoLUfAN-- 

E.NTABLATUT2.E    \-5 
CoKipoSED  of  7H12EE. 
ME(ABER5.-  architrave} 
TsiEi-E,  AND  Cornice.. 

(xiLumS  ARE  ■  5TRAI5-HT- 
foR.  j^of  "[flEitz  -flEKfHT 
A  HP  -HA/E  A  ,:JPACiUAL_ 
EnTA51S.(op  Cv-rMEX^ 

jApEROTb-  -^Diameter 
AT- THE  HE-ci-^— ■ 
When  ExEcuTEP-iH-WooP, 

"THE"  (foWMH   f  ALL  MEM- 
BETiS  SHtfOLO  Br  JoME--f 
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ORDERS   at    .IRCHITECTURE 


55 


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ORDERS   OF  ARCHITECTURE 


57 


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58  f'RUGRESSIlE    STEPS    IN    ARClllTECTVRAL    DRJIt'ING 


LeTTELING-VHEN- WELL-  ^EJIGMED 'AND- PLACtD  •  ADD^-  GUHLY- 
TOTH£    INT£Ltc/T-  <5  PUDfE  J'JJONAL- APPt^LANCt  •  Of-Tfifc  • 
DLAWING-  ^^  •  AVOJD- MECHANICAL-  LETTEILING- c§- TECHNIQUE:  • 
c^^i^Al^CHlTncTUILAL-    DLAWINGJ";  VH IC-H  •  SHOULD  •  DISPLAY  • 
THEi-  INDIVIDUAL- TECHHIC^L-  6-  fJL&EDOJ^  •  ^-  THEi-  ALCHITLCT- 
.UP.AL-  DHAUGHTyMAH-vrT    ExCEPT-   IN- SPECIAL-  IN J'TAMCE^- 
ALL- LLTT£5LING-  SHOULD  •  BL  •  CALEFULLY-  CONTAINED -BE- 
TWEEN-  THE-  GUIDE:- LINE  J" -^^^  TiiOUGii  •  THE:- CIRCULAR^- LET  TEL/- 
C-GO-Q_;6'  ^'  MAY-  fiL-   J'LIGHTLY-  LALGLJ^-  vt 

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INDEX 

(numbers  refer  to  pages) 


A 

Anchor  Bolt +6,  47 

Arches,   Flat   Stone 35,  3b 

Architrave,  Inside   +3,  44 

Of  Entablature 54,  55,  56,  57 

Outside 12,  41 

Areas,  Window 12 

Arrow  Heads 21 

Ash  Dump 22 

B 

Band,    Projecting   Brick. 24,  28 

Barge 33,52,53 

Base,  Column 40.  54,  55,  56,  57 

Detail 42 

Outlet    22 

Bathroom    11 

Bathtub    12,22 

Bed  Mould    29,  33.  34,  39,  47 

Bedroom 11 

Blinds 37 

Blocking 34.46,47 

Boiler 12.20,22 

Bracket 13,33,36,37 

Brick    14,20,22,-30 

C 

Capital   54,  55,  56,  57 

Casing 36,  42.  43,  44 

Cellar   12 

Center   Lines    10,  14,  1  S  19,  24 

Chimney 14,  25,  27 

Brick  Cap 2?i 

Cut  Stone  Cap 33 

Elevations 33 

Flues    11,  14,  22 

Height    32 

Rough  Cast  ...   33 

Terra  Cotta  Top 33 

Closet   12,22 

Cold  Closet   32 


Colunui,   Chamfered    37 

Channeled    37,  55,  56,  57 

Details    39,54,55,56,57 

Paneled 37 

Porch    12,37,39 

Round 37 

Square 37 

Conductor  Heads 37 

Cornice,  Blocked  Out 24,  26 

Box 34 

Details    34,  39,  46.  47,  49 

Elevations    33 

Gable    33 

Of  Entablature   54,  55,  56,  57 

Overhanging    33 

Plain \ 33 

Profiles 29,31 

' 'ro.ss-hatching    14.  20,  22 

D 

Dentil     55 

Details,  Arch 35 

Columns 39 

Cornices   34,46,47,49 

Exterior    12.22,37 

Fixtures    22 

Interior     11,  22 

IModillions    34 

Outlookers   34,  46,  47 

Segment    Heads    35 

Windows   35.  36,  41,  42,  44 

Dining-room     II,  19 

Door,   Closet    H 

Double    11 

Frame 22,41 

Head 29 

Openings n,  13,  14,18,22,27 

Outside 11,20,22,32 

Size 13 

Dormers 30,  3 1 

Flat  Roof 36 


60 


INDEX 


61 


Gabk-  Head 36 

Hip  Roof 36 

Segment  Head 36 

Sill  Lines 31,36 

Drawing 10 

Cross-hatchinf;    14,  20,  22 

Hints    10 

Inking    21,41 

Lettering 20,21,58.59 

Lines 10,  14,  15,  19,20,  21 

Notes    30,31 

Sketches   7,  8,  51,52,  53 

System  of  La\-out 7,  10 

Ticking  Off 24 

Dresser 12,20,22 

E 

Electric  Outlets 14,  20,  22 

Switches    14 

Elevations 12,  24,  30 

Chimneys    33 

Cornices    ?>?),  37 

Dormers 36 

Gables    33 

Porches 37 

Sketches    8,51,  52.  53 

Entablature    40,  54,  55,  56,  57 

Entasis    40,  54,  55,  56,  57 

Entrance,  Front 30,  32 

F 

Facia 38,  34,  47 

Fireplace 14,  20,  22,  32 

First  Story 12 

Fixtures    12,  22 

Floor  Line 12 

Frieze  40,  54,  55,  56,  57 

Furring 41_  42,  44 

G 

Gable   33 

Head  Dormer   36 

Gas  Outlet 14 

Glass  Sizes 1 2,  30 

Grade   Line    12,  24,  37 

Gusset  Hoard 28,  3 1 


Guttae    55 

Gutter,  Box 33,  34,  37,  39 

Hanging 33,  37 

Moulded    33 

Sunk 33,34,47 

H 

Hall    11,  19 

Head,  Door 24,28 

Window 24,28 

Hollow  Tile   14,20,22 

Hood,  Door 36,37 

I 

Inking,  Entasis  of  Column 40 

Rules  for   9,21,58 

J 

Joint  Mould    41.43.44 

Joists 34,  47 

Attic    Floor 47 

K 

Kitchen 11,  12,  19 

Keystones 13,  28,  35,  36,  37 

L 

Landing,  Stair 23 

Laundr\'  Tub 22 

Lavatory 12,  22 

Lettering    20,  21,  58,  59 

Lines,  Center 10.  14,  15.  19 

Cross-hatcli     20 

Dimension     20 

Inking  ot 21.58 

Intersection  of 9,  58 

Over-all   Dimension  20.  21 

Projection     20 

Living-room   11.19 

M 

Materials.  Indication  of .• 20,  22.  30 

Metope 55 

Modillion 29,  .^.^,  38,  39.  47.  57 

Alouiding,   Read    49 


FROGRESSII  E   STEPS   IX   ARCHITECTUR.iL    DR.IH  ISG 


Bed 29,31,39 

Cap 36 

Cavetto 49 

Conge 49 

Cyma-Recta   49 

Cyma-Reversa 49 

Details    48,49 

Echinus 49 

Half-Hollow   49 

Joint 41 

Lines 29,51,39 

Quarter-Round    49 

Scotia    49 

Torus  49 

Muntin   30,31,35.36 

Mutule 55 

N 

Newel  23 

Notes,  Location  on  Drawing 30,  31 

o 

Opening,  Dimensioning 20,  21 

Door  20,  22,  27 

Window 12,   13,  22,  27 

Orders  of   Architecture 54.  55.  56,  57 

Corinthian   54.  57 

Doric   54,  55 

Ionic    54,  56 

(^utlookcr    33,  37 

Details    34,  46,  47 

P 

Pantry    11,  19 

Window  Openings 12 

Parting  Strip 43,  44 

Partitions 14.  17 

Pencils    10 

Piers   12,  20.  37 

Pilaster 37 

Plans 10.   14.  20 

Details  22.  23 

Similarity   ' .  50 

Sketch    .' 8,  51,  52.  53 

Variations 50 


Plate   34,  46,  47 

Porch    20 

Baluster    37 

Columns 37 

Floor 13.37 

Heights 13 

Lattice    37 

Location   32 

Rail 13,37 

Steps 14 

Profile 38,39,49 

Pulley  Stile    43,  44 

Purlin 33 

Q 
Quoin,    Brick   or   Stone Z3,  52 

R 

Radiator   14,  20,  22 

Rafter    12,  34 

Ends 33 

Foot    46,  47 

Main 46,47 

Show 13 

Rail,  Lower  Sash 44.  45 

Meeting   44 

Range    12.20,22 

Reveal,  Frame   41 .  43,  44 

Rise  of  Stair 23 

Roof,  Blocked  Out 24,  26 

Pitch 13,24 

Ridge  Line 24,25 

Shingle   13 

Slag 13 

Slate   13.  36 

Tin   13.36 

Room.  Bath   11 

Bed 11 

Dining    11,20 

Living 11.20 

Location 10,  20 

Shape    11.20 

Size    10.  11.20 

Sketches    50.  51.  52,  53 


i\ni:.\  63 


S-  T 

Sash    35,  36,  44,  45      '"I'i^l^i"g"    -24,  40 

Tile    Hearth  ^^ 

Pockets   42,43,44      '!"''  '"f        .;  " 

1  in  Root  36.  3/ 

Second   Story    12      q^j^j^ 20,  2 1 

Shaft   54,  55,  56,  57      Transom  35 

Sheathing    34,  41,  46,  47      Tread   23 

Shingles    13.  46,  47      Trim,  Uoor   41,  42 

Slate    13,  36,  47  Inside   41,  42,  43.  44 

Wood  ., 13     _    Windou- 41,  42,  44 

p,  r  -•    I  I       rr\  gl\  ph    55 

Shutter    4.5,44  ■^■' 

Sink,  Kitchen 12,20,22  y 

Sill,   Brick    13,  35      \'ariations  in  Plans 32 

Details    41,  42,  44      Veneer 42,  43,  44 

Door    13      Vestibule     19 

Heights    24     \'<'I"tc 54,  56 

Inside    41,42,43.44  ^y 

Oi'tsidc    41,42.43,44      ^y.^^^^    11,14,20 

Stone 13,  3\41,  42  ij^ck  13 

Windoxv 11,  12,  41  Holhnv  Tile    14 

Wood   13,  35.  36,  42,  45         Stud    22 

Sketches,    Architect's    7,  8,  M ,  52,  53      Wash    Tray    12 

Skew  Block   13,  35      Water  Tabic   13.  24,  35 

Soffit    33     Weight  Box 41,  42.  43,  44 

Soil   Pipe    12      ^Vind    Break    42, 45 

Stairs    14.  10,  23      \Vindow    1 1.  20 

Head  Room 23  Architrave    41.  44 


Landing    23 

Main 2?. 

Method  of  Figuring 23 

Rear    23 

Riser    23 

Tread   23 

Stone    22,30 


Casement    1  1 ,  22,  35 

Cellar    22,41 

Details    41,42,43,44 

Dormer     30,31,  .36 

Double  Hung   22,  35,  41,  42.  43,  44 

Finish   41.42.43.44 

Frame    35,  36 

French    22 


Stool  44.  45  jij._^(J^   13,  35,  41 

Stop  Bead 43.  44         j^^„,i,    41 .  42.  44 

Details    42  Opening    . 12.  13.  27 

Window    43.  44  P.mes 12 

Story    Heights    24,  2S,  51.  53  Sill   Heights 11.12 

Stucco  52,53         Silk  11,13,35,41,44,45 


UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 

Los  Angeles 
This  book  is  DUE  on  the  last  date  stamped  below. 


FEP  i  5/1957 


APR  1  4  1^58 


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